Down by the river and up the hill above Chiado, three neighbourhoods that come into their own in the late afternoon and evening: the pink-painted bar street by Cais do Sodré, the tight grid of the Bairro Alto above it, and, further up, the leafier Príncipe Real.
Cais do Sodré and the Pink Street
Where the ferry from the south bank comes in. Rua Nova do Carvalho, once the heart of the red-light district, had its cobbles painted pink between 2011 and 2013 as old bars and brothels gave way to new ones — the name stuck, and so did the crowds, out late under a canopy of umbrellas and string lights. The Mercado da Ribeira and its Time Out food hall are just around the corner.
Bairro Alto
By day a quiet residential grid; from early evening it fills with people and small bars and stays lively late. The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, at its edge, looks across the valley to the castle — busy at sunset, with a kiosk bar. The Bica funicular runs down the slope from near here toward the river.
Príncipe Real
A step further up the hill and calmer — a garden square with a huge spreading cedar, ringed by nineteenth-century houses now holding concept shops, wine bars and restaurants. A good area to eat before, or instead of, the Bairro Alto crush.
Good to know
- The São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint is reached on foot from Chiado, or by the Glória funicular from the Restauradores
- The Bairro Alto is loud at night — pleasant to walk through, less so to sleep above
- Príncipe Real has a Saturday organic market in the garden
- From our side: ferry to Cais do Sodré, then the funicular or a ten-minute climb