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The palm-shaded main square of Setúbal, with its column and statue

Setúbal and Azeitão — market, wine and cheese

On the far side of the Arrábida, an hour from Charneca, two places that go together for a day built around food: the port city of Setúbal and the wine villages of Azeitão on the way.

Setúbal

A working port on the Sado estuary, less visited than it should be. The Mercado do Livramento is one of the best food markets in the country — fish especially — and the old streets behind it are full of small restaurants doing fried cuttlefish, the local dish. Boat trips go out into the estuary to see the resident dolphins.

Colourful fishing boats crowded into the harbour at Setúbal

Azeitão

A cluster of small villages known for three things: Moscatel de Setúbal, a sweet fortified wine you can taste at the old cellars; Azeitão cheese, a soft sheep’s cheese you eat with a spoon; and the tile workshop at São Simão, still making azulejos by hand.

Rows of vines on the hills around Azeitão, where Moscatel de Setúbal is made
A soft, spoonable wheel of Azeitão cheese with bread and fruit

Good to know

  • About an hour by car from our apartment; the two are 15 minutes apart
  • The Livramento market is a morning thing and best on Friday and Saturday
  • The José Maria da Fonseca winery in Azeitão runs tours and tastings — book ahead
  • Easy to combine with the Arrábida ridge road on the way

See our apartment near Costa da Caparica →