Alfama is the oldest part of Lisbon, the maze of narrow lanes and stairways that runs down the hill from the castle to the river. Most of it survived the 1755 earthquake, so the street plan is medieval — washing lines overhead, tiled façades, small squares you come across by accident.
The viewpoints
Two miradouros sit side by side near the top: Santa Luzia, with its tiled terrace looking straight over the rooftops, and Portas do Sol just above it. Higher up in Graça, the Senhora do Monte terrace has the widest view of all, best in the late afternoon.
Walking it
There’s no route to follow — the point is to get lost. From the top, the castle of São Jorge; at the bottom, the Sé cathedral and, towards the river, the white dome of the National Pantheon. The number 28 tram grinds through the middle of it; ride it early, and keep an eye on your bag when it’s full.
Fado
Fado was born in these streets. In the evening the small fado houses open for dinner and music — some need booking, some you just follow the sound. It’s touristy now, but the good ones are still worth a night.
Good to know
- Comfortable shoes — it’s all hills and worn cobbles
- Mornings are quietest; the tram and the viewpoints fill up by midday
- The Feira da Ladra flea market runs beside the Pantheon on Tuesdays and Saturdays
- A day trip from our side of the river: ferry from Cacilhas, or over the bridge by car