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Torre de Belém on the Tagus at sunset, Lisbon

Belém — the monastery, the tower and the custard tarts

Belém sits on the river a few kilometres west of central Lisbon, a run of grand monuments from the age when ships left here for India and Brazil. It’s an easy half-day, and it’s on the way if you’re coming from our side of the bridge.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

The monastery is the big one — a UNESCO site, built in the early 1500s in the Manueline style, all carved stone rope, coral and shells. The two-storey cloister is the part people remember. Vasco da Gama is buried in the church next door, which is free to enter.

The Manueline cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery, Belém

Torre de Belém

A short walk along the water, the tower is a small fortress built to guard the harbour, now standing just off the shore. You can go inside and up, though the queue moves slowly; many people are happy just to see it from the bank, especially at sunset.

Pastéis de Belém

The café Pastéis de Belém has made its warm custard tarts to the same recipe since 1837 — a recipe that came from the monastery and is still kept secret. There’s almost always a line at the takeaway counter; the tiled tea rooms inside are huge and turn over fast. Have them warm, with an espresso, and dust with cinnamon and icing sugar from the shakers on the table.

A plate of pastéis de nata on azulejo tiles, Belém

Good to know

  • About 20 minutes by car from the bridge, or the number 15 tram / the train from Cais do Sodré
  • The monastery is closed on Mondays; go early or late to skip the worst queues
  • A combined ticket covers the monastery and the tower if you plan to enter both
  • Also here: the Coach Museum, the MAAT, and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument

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