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Local guides

Places we love around our homes — sights, food, beaches and the practical bits, gathered by the people who live there.

The palm-shaded main square of Setúbal, with its column and statue

Costa da Caparica

Setúbal and Azeitão — market, wine and cheese

A day built around food on the far side of the Arrábida: a port city with one of the country's best markets,…

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A viewpoint over the green ridge and turquoise coast of the Serra da Arrábida

Costa da Caparica

The Serra da Arrábida and Portinho da Arrábida

A green limestone ridge that drops straight into a turquoise sea between Sesimbra and Setúbal — the most striking landscape close to…

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Aerial view of Sesimbra's bay, beach and hilltop castle

Costa da Caparica

Sesimbra — a fishing town with a castle and a beach

A fishing town in a sheltered south-facing bay on the far side of the Arrábida hills, with warmer, calmer water than the…

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A palm-lined street of cafés and restaurants in central Cascais

Costa da Caparica

Cascais — the town, the harbour and the beaches

The old fishing town turned resort at the western end of the Lisbon coast railway — compact, walkable, and made for a…

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Aerial view of the lighthouse and cliffs at Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe

Costa da Caparica

Cabo da Roca and the Guincho coast

The westernmost point of mainland Europe, and the run of cliffs, dunes and one enormous Atlantic beach between there and Cascais.

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Aerial view of the Palácio da Pena, painted red and yellow above Sintra

Costa da Caparica

Sintra — the Pena Palace and the Quinta da Regaleira

A cluster of palaces and gardens in wooded hills half an hour west of Lisbon — one of the busiest day trips…

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The Vasco da Gama Tower and cable car over the Parque das Nações waterfront

Costa da Caparica

Parque das Nações and the Oceanário — modern Lisbon by the water

The 1998 world's-fair site, now a riverside district of wide promenades and gardens, with one of the best aquariums in Europe —…

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A yellow Remodelado tram, line 28, stopped in a Lisbon street

Costa da Caparica

Riding tram 28 through Lisbon

The old yellow tram that grinds up and down Lisbon's steepest hills — thoroughly touristy, and still worth doing once.

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Aerial view of the Castelo de São Jorge on its hill above Alfama's rooftops

Costa da Caparica

Castelo de São Jorge and the view over Lisbon

A Moorish castle on the highest of Lisbon's hills, above Alfama, with the widest view over the city and the river —…

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Diners at candlelit tables under bunting on a Bairro Alto street in the evening

Costa da Caparica

Bairro Alto and Príncipe Real — Lisbon in the evening

Two hillside neighbourhoods above Chiado that come into their own in the late afternoon and evening — a tight bar grid and…

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The wave-patterned pavement and fountain of Rossio square in the Baixa

Costa da Caparica

Baixa and Chiado — Lisbon’s downtown

A flat grid of streets rebuilt on a clean plan after the 1755 earthquake, running from the riverfront square up to the…

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A cobbled street lined with restaurant tables near Cacilhas and Almada

Costa da Caparica

Almada Velha and the Boca do Vento lift

The small old centre of Almada above Cacilhas, with viewpoints straight across at Lisbon and a glass lift down the cliff to…

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Lunch by the water at Cacilhas, with Lisbon across the Tejo

Costa da Caparica

Cacilhas — the ferry to Lisbon, the Ginjal quay and the old frigate

The ferry terminal across the Tejo from Lisbon, with seafood restaurants, a riverside walk under the cliff, and a nineteenth-century sailing frigate…

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Aerial view of the Lagoa de Albufeira sandbar, separating the calm lagoon from the open Atlantic

Costa da Caparica

Lagoa de Albufeira — the lagoon south of the beaches

A warm, shallow lagoon behind the dunes with the open Atlantic on the other side — a favourite for families and for…

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The view from the Arriba Fóssil over the Mata Nacional dos Medos pine forest to the beach

Costa da Caparica

Mata dos Medos and the Arriba Fóssil — pine forest and fossil cliffs

Behind the Caparica beaches, a wall of ochre and red fossil sea-cliffs with a protected umbrella-pine forest along the top — an…

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Praia da Sereia seen from the dunes, with the lifeguard tower and beach umbrellas

Costa da Caparica

Praia da Morena and Praia da Sereia — the beaches south of Caparica town

A run of dune-backed Atlantic beaches between the busy Caparica seafront and quiet Fonte da Telha, reached by a little train in…

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A plate of grilled sardines at a Lisbon street festival in June

Costa da Caparica

Grilled sardines and the June street parties in Lisbon

Every June, Lisbon's old neighbourhoods fill with bunting, grills and sardines for the Santos Populares.

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The wide open sand of Fonte da Telha beach, Costa da Caparica

Costa da Caparica

Fonte da Telha — the quiet end of the Caparica beaches

The village at the southern tip of Costa da Caparica: wide sand, dunes, seafood shacks and far fewer people.

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Torre de Belém on the Tagus at sunset, Lisbon

Costa da Caparica

Belém — the monastery, the tower and the custard tarts

Lisbon's riverside monument quarter: a Manueline monastery, a fort in the water, and the original pastéis de Belém.

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View over the rooftops of Alfama and the Tagus from the Santa Luzia viewpoint, Lisbon

Costa da Caparica

Alfama — Lisbon’s oldest quarter

The tangle of lanes below the castle: viewpoints, tram 28, fado in the evening, and how to walk it.

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Cristo Rei statue above the 25 de Abril bridge and Lisbon at sunset

Costa da Caparica

Cristo Rei — the view over Lisbon from Almada

The open-armed statue on the south bank, and the widest view there is of Lisbon and the 25 de Abril bridge.

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beach view

Costa da Caparica

Costa da Caparica — beaches, seafood and how to get around

The long Atlantic beach south of Lisbon: where to swim, where to eat, and how to reach the quieter stretches.

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